casduo.blogg.se - Adafruit trinket 5v power mamps

Initially I started out with the original Trinket ($6.95) but I quickly got into trouble with it and the project became unstable, but when I upgraded to the Pro Trinket all that went away. I feel that this board is cool enough that it deserves a few words. The heart and brains of the dFTV is the Pro Trinket 5v ($9.95) from. Because I’m doing this with a 7-yo, I used lead-free solder. I found a lovely plastic project box with a clear top, again from China, $2.69 here. That way I could just use any available 5 volt USB phone/tablet charger as my power supply. I cut the B side end off of a junker printer USB cable and soldered a barrel connector onto it. You could go as low as 100Ω here and be fine I think. 10kΩ is traditional for a pull-down resistor. This could actually be 20k, 30k, or higher. Does need to be a higher voltage rating than your power supply.

The exact value doesn’t matter, you just want a fat little capacitor there to provide some filtering on the power rails. I had this on-hand, but should cost about a buck. 5.5 x 2.1 mm female panel mount power jack.Ordering from China takes weeks, but you cannot beat the price. I did all my testing with a 12 LED Neopixel ring from, but my final version used this a 16 LED ring from China. 16 RGB LED Neopixel compatible ring ($4.00).Perma-Proto Quarter-sized Breadboard, $8.50 for a 3-pack from.Everything about my dFTV is both more expensive and more complex. In my dFTV redesign I went through an Arduino Uno, then a Trinket, and finally a Pro Trinket 5 volt. No little board, no LEDs, no buttons, no headers, just that itty bitty chip and a sparse few components – a beautifully minimalistic design. The oFTV used an AT Tiny 85 controller, which is literally just a bare 8 pin chip. This Instructable is my resulting dFTV (derivative Fake TV). Mostly just because, you know, complications are fun. Add an occasional fade-to-black, again to increase the realism.I had assumed a normal Gaussian distribution (the famous bell curve), but most film scholars seem to think it's more of a lognormal distribution (although that remains contentious). As it turn out there is significant interest in various directors' cut lengths and what distributions they best fit - scholarly papers on the subject even.

The random() function returns a linear distribution, which seemed "unnatural".

Change the "cut length" (time between lighting changes) to something more realistic than a linear distribution.

Seemed ridiculous given that the Arduino has a clock (as it turns out, it doesn't actually have a real-time clock, just a timer - learned something there). When I ran the oFTV while on vacation, I put it on plugin timer. Still, with only 6 Neopixels in my version, it seemed a little dim. I had omitted that and hardcoded the brightness to the maximum. The original Fake TV (hereafter known as the oFTV) had a potentiometer (pot) to adjust the brightness.